The Kola Peninsula in Northwest Russia is shrouded in darkness for more than half of the year. The first frosts hit the area at the end of October and temperatures don’t rise above freezing until May. The snow that has accumulated over the long winter disappears only at the end of the calendar spring. As the snow and ice melt, the water runs into and fills the peninsula’s 130,000 lakes and rivers, where many large trout live. Travelling to this harsh environment to fish in these abundant waters is every fisherman’s dream. Hundreds of kilometres of arctic tundra surround this area, making it difficult to reach. Nevertheless, avid trout fishermen continue to dream big in hopes of getting that big catch.
It is easy to go back in time here, back to the 17th century, when Nikon, then the Patriarch of Moscow and All Russia, dreamed of building a retreat that would bear witness to Holy Rus’ faithfulness and its role as the keeper of the law and word of the Lord – an earthly estate for the Heavenly King. The patriarch, known for his ecclesiastical reforms, succeeded in reconstructing the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Neither before nor after Nikon has anyone been able to reproduce the ancient architectural miracle so perfectly. Nikon proved himself a true innovator, confirmed by the archeologists who carried out the church’s massive restoration. The scholars turned back the clock and managed to reveal new facts from the past. It turns out that the monastery near Moscow was once a hub of folk craft and ecclesiastical art. Those in the know claim they have never seen such amazing tile specimens...